Me, too.

I can say with absolute certainty that being sexually assaulted in a foreign country is different than being sexually assaulted in America. As I sit in this plane at 10,000 feet in the air and on my way back to Malawi, I can’t help but reflect on the past three weeks. Honestly, the past five months have been an emotional rollercoaster and there’s a constant question ringing in my ears: Why am I doing this to myself?

I’ve been sexually assaulted three times in Malawi. I am not physically hurt. I’m ok. It could have been worse. However, that doesn’t really make me feel better to say that. The first time that it happened, I was angry, then sad, panicked, embarrassed, frustrated. The barrage of emotions was unpredictable and I was frustrated mostly with myself because of my reactions to this happening. Working through it took a lot of time and effort and discomfort but I was really feeling like I had a handle on it and I was starting to feel comfortable by myself again. Then incident two and three happened simultaneously on the same day and within minutes of each other and I just broke.

I knew that working in a third world country was risky in many ways. I did everything I could to prepare myself for the possibility of this happening, among other things. It’s just that… can you really prepare for this? Is there any way to know EXACTLY how you’re going to react to this happening.

No.

There isn’t.

There is no way to know how something like this will affect you. And, for me, my reactions were the scariest part. The emotions come in waves. It sucks.

Peace Corps Malawi has been BEYOND supportive through all of this. They are incredible and I could not ask for better people to work with. I still love Malawi. Obviously. I’m going back. Right now.

I’ve gotten the same reaction from everyone: “Why are you going back?”

Well, I’m going back because I’m not finished. I’m going back because I have a job to do. I’m going back because there are people depending on me. Because I worked my ass off to get to Malawi in the first place. Because PST was hard and I don’t want to ever have to go through it again. Because I love my friends and colleagues. Because I miss my home and my dog and my cat and my students and my host family.

Mostly, I miss Malawi.

Getting on the plane to go back there was incredibly difficult and leaving my nieces for the second time is breaking my heart. The tears keep coming and holding them back only makes it worse. But, I have to do this. I have to go home.

Living in Malawi isn’t easy. If this job was easy then everyone would do it.

I bought a necklace yesterday that has a fortune cookie hanging from a gold chain and the paper it came on said “good fortune follows the brave.” So, today, I’m choosing to be brave and hoping that good fortune follows suit.

Peace out, CA.

Malawi, I’m comin’ for ya.

Njombwa

Real Talk: I’ve been having a really tough time at my new site. I came here with high expectations. My fault. I expected everyone to want to listen to me and hear my ideas and respect my opinions and that just hasn’t happened. 

I’ve been having a difficult time getting through to the men in my community. Honestly, culture runs DEEP. I keep forgetting to celebrate small victories. I keep forgetting that I can’t change everyone and the ones that do want to change may take a while longer than I want them to. 

I’ve been homesick and sad and have, on occasion, wondered if it would be easier to just go home. 

HOWEVER, those musings only last for a few minutes because I know I am here for many reasons. I am strong and capable. I am making awesome friends and every day my students try a little bit harder to know me and let me in. Most of the male teachers are trying to understand me and hear me when I speak and voice my many frustrations. 

So, for a few weeks, I tried everything that I could to rejuvenate and get back to my happy and positive self. I ran every day. I wrote in my journal. I called my mom. I called my nieces. I ate food from America. Every tool in my toolbox that I could think of and nothing was working. 

Finally, I sent a text to my boss and asked him if I could take a day to go and visit my Malawi family in Njombwa. I just wanted to see my Amayi. My boss said I could go. 

I traveled yesterday with two of my students. We took two minibuses and walked 30-45 minutes in very hot weather and it was EXACTLY what I needed. Seeing my Amayi and my family and all of the people that I grew so close to in Njombwa rejuvenated me and really reminded me about all of the things I love in Malawi. It brought me back to the good. It brought me back home. 

One of the first men that I saw as I was walking into the village said, “welcome back to your home.” My cheeks hurt from smiling so big and laughing all day. I fell in love with Njombwa and all of the people there for the first three months in this country. I left my heart in Njombwa when I left one and a half months ago. I am so looking forward to visiting Njombwa often throughout the next two years because I know that that will always be the place that will remind me of why I love Malawi the most. 

My heart is so full. 

Struggle

It isn’t all sunshine and roses. I knew that from the day that I applied. My goal in starting this blog was to give an honest account of my time here in Malawi. Don’t get me wrong, Malawi is incredible and I love it here 90% of the time. But, some days are really difficult. Some weeks are definitely more of a struggle than I would like them to be. 

I’m currently in “site integration period” and that means that I am not supposed to leave my new community for three months. This is so that each volunteer can build a strong foundation for the two years ahead of them in their community.  Basically, we spent three months surrounded by like-minded individuals and now we get to spend these next three months surrounded by the opposite. 

Mind you, almost all of the people I have met in Malawi have been wonderful and kind humans. However, this country is built on a very different culture than the one I grew up in. These cultural differences can be very frustrating to both sides. 

The word “gentle” is not an adjective that I would use to describe myself and I know that, even to Americans, I can be a bit overwhelming in my “passionate” opinions. So, imagine how I may be coming off to Malawian men who are “lucky” enough to work with me every day. 

Anyone who knows me knows that I am passionate about equality and human rights and all things pertaining to the treatment of individuals no matter who they are. Typically, Malawian women are nothing like me. I’m opinionated, loud, strong, tenacious, and that is a lot different from the ways that women are expected to be in a Malawian village. 

Needless to say, I’m learning a lot. I’m realizing that I may not be able to change every man that I work with. I’m realizing that I need to celebrate my small victories like they are BIG ones. I’m learning to enjoy the few friends that I’ve made and be extremely and whole-heartedly present with them because laughing with them gives me all of the joy I need in order to make it through my day. I’m learning to truly look forward to my student, Moses, knocking on my door EVERY morning at 5:30am and the huge smile on his face when he sees how miserable I look when I open the door because I need my coffee before I adult. I’m learning to enjoy the cold bottle of Coca Cola after my mile walk to my trading center on days when there isn’t a blackout. I’m starting to remember to look up at the sky at night to see the gorgeous stars that shine so brightly here and the sun as it rises and sets each day. 

They told us from day one that this is “the hardest job you’ll ever love” and I am just trying to find the love in everything that I can. 

Mostly, I’m just trying to grow.  Also, Maizey thinks I’m a jungle gym.

Rain.

At the risk of sounding like a typical Californian… HOLY CRAP IT RAINED!!!! The rain didn’t last long. However, I was in my house and my house has a tin roof and OH. MY. GOSH. 

Let me explain. When I lived in California, I wasn’t a big fan of the rain. My mom LOVES the rain but I could really go without it. I love me some sunshine. Anyway, today in Mphomwa it started raining at around 3:00pm and it started out slow. I thought, “Oh. Ok. Cool. I can handle this. It sounds so pretty on my tin roof.” But NOOOOOOOO. The rain kept getting harder and harder and louder and louder and it was CRAZY!!!!!! I couldn’t hear myself think! 

After it stopped, I went into my backyard and got Kuwala, my dog, and took him outside and across the road to the school. See, I usually take him for a run at 4:00pm so I needed to get him out of the house for some exercise because he is crazy. So, we walked up to the school and found my student/friend, Moses, and asked if he wanted to go for a walk up the mountain with us. Then we went and found my student/friend, Rhoda, and invited her to join as well. While we waited for the two of them to get changed, we ran into my head teacher and I told him about my initial reaction to the rain. I asked him if we teach when it is raining really hard because I wasn’t sure how it was possible for the students and teachers to hear each other when it is raining like that on the roof! He said we do not teach during rains like that. We take a break. 

But, how crazy is it that in this country and I’m sure in many others, they have to, basically, stop their lives because of typical weather conditions? Rainy season is coming up and I am so curious to see how it all works out and how crazy the rain hitting my roof will make me! 

Here are pictures from our walk up to the top of our little mountain. 

When a house becomes a home. 

It really is the little things in life that are really the biggest things. Like, letters from halfway around the world or pickles in a bag. Or even food that kind of resembles pizza when it is so rare that you ever see cheese. 

I miss home. Someone once told me that the “threes” are the hardest. Three weeks, three months… that those are the worst when it comes to being homesick. Well, they were right! I’m just happy that I remembered that because knowing that made it so much easier to work my way through it. 

A week ago I hung my curtains. This week I pinned all of my pictures and all of the letters and artwork that people have sent to me on one of the walls in my sitting room. I also hung my hammock and cooked a full meal by myself. I gave Kuwala a bath. I hammered nails into my wall to hang my scarves and necklaces on. All of these are such small things that made such a huge difference. 

A few weeks ago I weighed myself and found that I had lost 15lbs even though I really hadn’t noticed. Today I put on the one pair of jeans that I brought to Malawi and they are so loose and I’m just so happy. 

I start teaching on the 18th and I can’t wait to have the students back here. It is so quiet without them. Also, I am looking forward to having a real schedule. My days move very slowly. Actually, life just moves slowly here. Not in a bad way. Just very different from home. 

I have been able to do many more things for myself lately and that is incredibly helpful in terms of how I feel because even just being able to soak my feet for an hour so that I could scrape the dead skin off was so wonderful and felt so incredible. I watched a movie and relaxed and nobody talked to me… except for Kuwala… and I’m ok with that. I am SLOWLY accumulating furniture and feeling more and more at home in this new community. 

It is so difficult being an outsider. Being called “azungu” instead of my name and being given the “azungu” price until they realize that you know the real price and sort of speak their language. Always needing to say “hello” first because if I don’t then I am the rude one. 

Don’t get me wrong, I love it here. The people are wonderful and for the most part I am welcomed with open arms. There are just hurdles and even when those hurdles are expected, it doesn’t make it easier to deal with the hurdles. 

So, I will HAPPILY continue to introduce myself and continue to remind them that I am a volunteer and have no money to hand out. I will HAPPILY continue to try to prove that being here is important to me and their language is important to me and their culture is important to me because all of these things are SO important to me. I will keep reminding myself that I have only been in this community for a couple of weeks and I need to be patient as I try to inttegrate and, hopefully, win them over! 

As they told us at the very beginning: “This is the hardest job you’ll ever love.”

I’m just getting started! 

The next two years.

For the next two years I will be teaching at Mphomwa CDSS. I moved here on Friday the 25th of August. On the 24th, myself and 64 other trainees became Peace Corps Volunteers and swore to uphold the constitution. It was pretty incredible. 

We are coming into hot season. Mphomwa is quieter than Njombwa was and it makes it difficult to sleep at night. I got so used to having all of the noises around me and having my family and neighbors so close. My house is humungous and there are so many bugs. It feels safe even with all of the creepy crawly things. For the next three months I will be staying in my village and trying me best to effectively integrate into this new community. I miss my host family and all of the other now-volunteers. This will definitely take some getting used to. 

On a happier note: my amazing language and cultural facilitator brought my dog to my house on Friday afternoon and so I have the cutest companion. His name is Kuwala and he has already made himself at home in my house and in my heart. 

I’m looking forward to starting my work at the school. I’m waiting for furniture so that I can get my house organized and make it into more of a home. 

Also, I’m getting a cat. (Sorry Mom!)

The cat will kill all of the creepy crawly things and also they are so cute. I hope that the cat will be a fun friend for Kuwala when I have to be at work every day. So, safe to say, this house will be no different than my home that I left back in California. 

I am happy but I am also very homesick. Some days more than others. I know that it will pass but when you’re in the homesick stage of a journey, it’s hard to see the other side where you know you will feel better. Trying to keep busy and meet all of my neighbors. But, wanted to share all of my feelings because the whole point of this blog was to share my journey. Good. Bad. Ugly. 

Speaking of ugly, there are so many cockroaches in my new home. ALL. THE. TIME. Working on getting poison to put around the outside of my house to keep them away. Pray for me? Kuwala isn’t phased by any of this. He’s lucky he’s so cute. 

Just when I thought I had prepared for everything. 

Before coming to Malawi, I tried to prepare myself for any and all ailments that might occur during my service. I stocked up on meds for many different situations. A lot of “just in case” things were stuffed into my luggage. Never did it cross my mind, EVEN ONCE, that I might get an ear infection. Not once. So, as I sit in this Peace Corps vehicle on our way to pick up chicken and then travel to Kasungu from Lilongwe, I can’t help but laugh. This is the greatest ear infection EVER.

Before this, I had never had an ear infection. Not even when I was little. I’m not prone to getting them. Also, I don’t think that they are incredibly common in adults… I could be wrong, though. Anyway…

I had had a cold for around three weeks. I went to Mphomwa for my site visit and the night that I came back to Njombwa, I was so excited to be home and to see my family. I ate dinner so quickly that night and it ended up upsetting my stomach. I woke up in the middle of the night and puked up all of my food. Well, when you’re puking, there is a lot of pressure that goes to your head and so I ended up with pressure in my left ear. I didn’t think much of it because it was annoying but I figured it would fix itself by the morning.

I woke up the next morning to even more pressure in my left ear and, by this time, it was aching. Not terribly. But aching nonetheless. I went to language class and decided to go see the PCMO (Peace Corps Medical Officer) after language.

When I went to see the PCMO, she and I both decided that it was probably congestion and so she gave me a decongestant and told me to let her know if it wasn’t fixed by the next morning. The next 24 hours were excruciating. I took the decongestant and prayed. The pain continued to increase. I tried everything. I didn’t sleep at all that night and in the morning I walked out of my house and saw my Amayi and just cried. I couldn’t stop crying. I was so frustrated.

Amayi went to get Chifundo, the homestay assistant. Chifundo called the PCMO. They told me to start taking antibiotics, Advil, and Tylenol. I continued to cry. I went to go catch the bus to Mponela to go and open my Malawi bank account, despite the fact that I was nauseous and completely miserable. When we got back from the bank, I went home and went to bed for the rest of the day.

After the first 24 hours, the pain started to subside, slightly, and I thought that it would continue to get better as the time passed on the antibiotics. I was wrong. The little bit of relief was all the relief that I would feel over the next three days. My ear ached every time that the pain pills wore off, especially in the middle of the night. My ear leaked like crazy while I slept and it made me have to wash my pillow so I started stuffing tissue in my ear at night only to have the soaked tissue wake me up six or seven times as well as the pain. It was horrible. During this time, I kept in contact with the PCMO as well as texting my mom and my cousin who is an incredible pediatrician. I don’t know what I would have done without them.

I was constantly doubting the antibiotics. I wanted stronger pain meds but they couldn’t transport them to me because of the need for the PC vehicles in other parts of the country.

Finally, Monday rolled around and the PCMO sent me a text to check in and get an update. I told them that I thought I should have them look at my ear again and they agreed. I assumed that they would come to see me in the training village. Instead, they sent a car to transport me to Lilongwe. My immediate thought: Lilongwe has PIZZA!!!!!!!

I got to Lilongwe and the PCMO checked my ear and gave me some drops. I was then taken to check into a hotel. Yep. With running water! And a toilet! And a shower! And a bed! And electricity!!! Not only all of that, there were also a bunch of PCVs there that are in their last week of service and they were so happy to help me find pizza.

I spent the evening chatting and eating pizza and Indian food. Literally what PST (pre-service training) dreams are made of. I woke up the next morning to pancakes and bacon. After breakfast I went and got ice cream and then walked back to the Peace Corps office. The PCMO checked my ear again and decided to switch my antibiotics and then I got in a car to go shopping with PC staff.

My ear still hurts. However, I feel rejuvenated and like I’m finally on the mend. I’m traveling back to my training village to finish up the last month of PST and as much as I hated this ear infection, I can’t imagine that I would have enjoyed it any more in the USA. Plus, the amount of joy that I felt getting to eat dairy products would not have been as great if I hadn’t been deprived of them for so long.

BEST EAR INFECTION EVER.

You are most welcome.

Currently lying in a bed at my Head Teacher’s house and feeling content in knowing that I am comfortable and happy in my future home. Who would have thought that I would be this happy in a place that is so far from California? Not me!

I am 4 days into my site visit and I am truly hoping that the rest of PST goes quickly because I want to live here already!!!! My new site is called Mphomwa and I will be teaching at Mphomwa CDSS. My house is, technically, in a village called Jembe. My house is BEAUTIFUL.

My new house was built just for me. It is huge! I am so looking forward to making it my home. I have ordered furniture and have many ideas. Mostly, I’m looking forward to getting a dog.

I went to church today in Mphomwa (necessary for integration) and at the end of the service I was asked to come to the front and introduce myself. Not only did I introduce myself… I did it all in Chichewa! I was so proud of myself.

My school has 15 teachers and I will be the 16th and the only female. The students seem excited to have me here. The class sizes are around 100+. That will be a challenge.

My favorite part of my new site is my Head Teacher’s youngest child. A little girl who is almost four and reminds me so much of my Leiana. She attached herself to me on day one of my visit and I call her my shadow. Such a blessing especially because being away from my nieces has been one of my biggest struggles. Her snuggles have filled me with joy and filled the void that I’ve been feeling so much lately.

Mphomwa already feels like home. I feel like I belong and I feel like I have a purpose here. I can’t wait to move into my new home and start contributing to this incredible community.

Ndathokoza Kwambiri (I am very grateful)

Mphomwa

I’ve been in Malawi a little over a month now and I must admit that it feels like it’s been longer than that. PST is grueling at times and the days run together. I often forget what day it is and dates are rarely ever realized. I have come to terms with the fact that I am bound to miss birthdays. For that, I apologize.

When I arrived in Malawi, I had no expectations about where my site would be. I didn’t know a lot about the different regions. I knew that I wanted to be in the least bug-infested area as possible. I know it’s silly because… Africa. However, still a true prayer of mine.

After being here and getting acquainted with the area and with my host family, I realized that I had fallen in love with Kasungu. I had fallen in love with Njombwa. I had fallen in love with it all. I also realized that the central region needed to be my home. I voiced these feelings even though I knew that they would have little weight because it was late in the planning of where our sites would be. Nevertheless, I hoped and prayed.

When the day of the big reveal came I was so nervous. Sick to my stomach. They blindfolded us and brought us to a big field. They guided us to our sites that were positioned on a large outline of Malawi in the middle of a soccer field. I remember being led away from others. It was quiet near me. That gave me hope. I knew that not many people were being placed in the central region. The biggest need is in the north and south.

When I took off my blindfold, I was ecstatic. I was standing next to a sign that read “Kasungu” and I was thrilled.

My site is called Mphomwa. It is around an hour north of my training village. I will be close to my family for the entire two years that I will be living in Malawi. I feel incredibly fortunate. I got placed exactly where I wanted to be.

31

365 days ago I was sitting on my couch in California and filling out my Peace Corps application. I remember thinking that it was such a long shot and that there was no way they would pick me.

Fast forward one year and here I am… the day before my 31st birthday and I’m here! I’m in AFRICA! Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would ACTUALLY be selected out of thousands of applicants to have the privilege of serving in the Peace Corps.

31. So I am sure that you are all wondering what exciting plans I have for my birthday, right?! Well… I’m going to…….. church. Yep! This good little Jewish girl is going to church. Also, I’m going to re-mud the floor in my room AND do my laundry! But, I’m in Africa and I am basking in this incredible journey that I am so blessed to be on. My first year of my thirties has been one hell of a rollercoaster with millions of twists and turns and ups and downs. I feel like I’ve learned so much about myself and successfully spoken my truth in many situations that I had never had the courage to previously. I look back upon this last year and I am so proud of this woman that I am becoming. This person. The things that I have overcome in this past year and the lessons I have learned. There are so many.

My life has been enriched by incredible relationships with people I never expected to meet and this has continued to be the case within these few weeks that I have been here in Malawi. Even with the trials that I have already had, I am happy. The process to get here was so long and complicating and now that I am here, well, it is so clear as to why that is. Africa is not for the faint of heart. This journey will not be an easy one… but it will be worth it. It already is.

With a happy and hopeful heart, I welcome this year with open arms.